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The New Smoky Eye

Think Spring is about light and bright eye shades? Not so. Smoky, smudged black kohl was a key look at some of this season’s hottest shows.

The Smudged and Smoky eyes at Rag & Bone, Prabal Gurung and Coach.

Ditch the liquid liner - eyes have had a 90s grunge-over. We saw heavily pencilled waterlines on the Rag & Bone catwalk, while at Prabal Gurung it was smoked out with shadow. At Coach, shadow was smudged under the lash line only for a slept-in look. At Rag & Bone, make-up artist Tom Pecheux created a lived-in black liner look inspired by ‘the kind of girl who was having too much fun last night to take off her make-up before going to bed.’ However, the mussed-up effect isn’t as easy to master as it may seem; turns out, it takes more than just a slick of black pencil drawn along the water line to nail the slept-in effect. Pecheux also applied a few coats of waterproof mascara to top and bottom lashes, using his fingers to gently blend in the pigment into the roots. ‘It stays on longer,’ said Pecheux ‘and adds a certain timelessness.’ To complete the look? A touch of eye gloss dabbed onto the lids. Two words: sex kitten.

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“It takes more than just a slick of black pencil drawn along the water line to nail the slept-in effect.”